When David Schottenstein started Astor & Black in 2004, the gap in the market was apparent and the mission was simple. "I felt like there's a tremendous market out there of people who want and appreciate fine clothing, but can't — or don't want to — spend a fortune on it," he recalls. So his hand-canvassed suit business (from patterns cut to each customer's measurements) is based on a different model than traditional bespoke houses. First and foremost, there's no house: a growing team of 80 representatives nationwide will come to your home or office to take your measurements, help you choose your style and fabrics, then get your suit hand-made and delivered. The style combinations are endless and the prices ridiculous — the basic line starts at $499, and the high-end Nobility line, with softer canvassing and more luxurious fabrics, starts at $1,200 — and the customer base keeps growing (including a certain Best Dressed Real Man In America).
To be sure, the anti-brick-and-mortar model has less overhead, but Schottenstein maintains that Astor & Black's secret is taking a much smaller margin: "It's not that we're saving so much, it's just that we're not making as much. Most retailers would probably cry if they saw our net income, but for me, I've got a long-term vision." That vision expands this week with the launch of the newly re-vamped astorandblack.com where, for the first time, you can fully design a suit from scratch online. Once a salesperson takes your measurements, you can log in and, using a new proprietary interface, create suits, shirts, and trousers however you please. And it might even be better than having the salesman come to you. "By clicking on a small piece of fabric," Schottenstein says, "people will be enabled, for the first time ever, to see exactly what their custom garment will actually look like instead of having to imagine it from a swatch." Nice
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